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El Bañuelo

El Bañuelo

Carrera del Darro, 31. 18010. Granada

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The Bañuelo or Bath of the Walnut Tree (Hammam al-Yawza), also known as the Bath of Palaces, Baths of the Axares, and Bath of the Gate of Guadix, is the oldest hammam or Arab bath in Andalusia and one of the largest and best-preserved in the Iberian Peninsula. At the end of the 19th century, it began to be called Bañuelo because it was smaller than the Arab baths of the Alhambra.

In 1918, it was declared a National Monument and is part of the Andalusi monuments open to the public in the city of Granada. It has been designated as a Asset of Cultural Interest.

 

History of the Monument

Arab baths originated from ancient Roman baths, but unlike them, they did not use immersion pools. Instead, water was poured over the body using irrigation. Additionally, they were usually smaller in size. To retain heat, they had thick walls and skylights in the vaulted ceilings, allowing for proper ventilation and thermal regulation inside.

The Bañuelo was the hammam or bath of the Ajsaris quarter (or the Axares quarter) and one of the twenty-one Arab baths that existed in Granada, excluding the luxurious baths of the Comares Palace in the Alhambra. It was built in the 11th century by the Jewish vizier Ibn Nagrela during the reign of King Badis of the Taifa Kingdom.

During the 11th century, the eastern area of Granada’s medina, near the Darro River, began to be populated, giving rise to the Ajsaris quarter. This neighbourhood was enclosed by a wall that started at the Puerta de los Tableros (Bab al-Difaf), ran along the river, and ascended to the Puerta de los Estandartes (Bab al-Bunud).

The Bañuelo was part of the Mezquita del Nogal. It was built within the al-Qasaba al-Qadima or Old Alcazaba, near the Puerta de los Estandartes, along with other Zirid buildings in the Ajsaris quarter, which is why it was also known as the Baths of the Axares.

Hammams or public baths were essential institutions for the Muslim community. The Hispano-Muslims not only placed great importance on hygiene, but the baths also served as a social meeting place in each neighbourhood.

After the Christian conquest, the baths continued to be used until Philip II prohibited the Moriscos from using them as gathering places. The main reason was that they were potential centres for conspiracy, but also because the baths represented the continuity of Muslim culture.

In the following centuries, the Bañuelo became the public laundry of the Axares quarter, maintaining its function as a communal meeting point for the locals.

It is unknown how it came into private hands, but it is known that it was in ruins by the mid-19th century. Thanks to Gonzalo Enríquez de Luna, the owner of the building at the time, the Bañuelo was saved from demolition. In 1912, Enríquez de Luna requested permission to clear the rubble, and during these works, the historical significance of the Bañuelo was rediscovered.

In 1927, Leopoldo Torres Balbás acquired the Bañuelo for 16,541 pesetas using funds from Alhambra ticket sales and began restoration work, which was completed in 1928. Since then, the Bañuelo has been open to the public.

 

Artistic Description

The Bañuelo is located at 31 Carrera del Darro in Granada, opposite the Cadí Bridge and the Darro River.

Its layout is similar to that of Roman baths, divided into four rooms: al-bayt al-maslaj (vestibule), al-bayt al-barid (cold room), al-bayt al-wastani (warm room), and al-bayt al-sajun (hot room), corresponding to the apodyterium, frigidarium, tepidarium, and caldarium of a Roman bath.

All the rooms are covered with barrel vaults featuring octagonal and star-shaped skylights, which allow both natural light and ventilation.

The warm room is the main and most elaborately decorated space. Some of its original wall coverings are still preserved. This room contains ten columns, all sourced from previous buildings, with capitals from different periods, including Roman, Visigothic, Caliphal, and Zirid.

Additionally, from the hot room, visitors can access the boiler room, where remnants of the furnace, chimneys, and other heating elements are still visible.

 

Useful Visitor Information

  • 15th September – 30th April: Monday to Sunday, 10:00 – 17:00.
  • 1st May – 14th September: Monday to Sunday, 9:00 – 14:30 and 17:00 – 20:30.

Access is available by purchasing the “Andalusi Monuments” ticket, which includes entry to the Bañuelo and other Andalusi monuments in Granada: Corral del Carbón, Palace of Dar al-Horra, Maristán, and the Moorish House (Calle Horno de Oro).

The Bañuelo is also included in the "Dobla de Oro" ticket, which grants access to: the Bañuelo, Corral del Carbón, Palace of Dar al-Horra, Maristán, Moorish houses (Horno de Oro, Casa del Chapiz, and Casa de Zafra), Qubba of the Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, and the Alhambra General ticket.

It is recommended to check the official websites for ticket details.

The "Dobla de Oro" ticket is linked to a specific entry time for the Nasrid Palaces. This schedule is strict, and late arrivals will not be admitted. Alhambra tickets are nominative, and visitors must present the ID or passport used for purchase.

 

How to Get There

On Foot

The easiest way to reach the Bañuelo is on foot. From Plaza Nueva, it is about a 5-minute walk along Carrera del Darro.

By Car

As the Bañuelo is located on Carrera del Darro, a monumental and scenic route, cars are not allowed, except for garage owners and hotel guests.

By Bus or Taxi

Several bus lines serve the Bañuelo:

  • From Plaza Nueva, take lines C31 or C34 and alight at Carrera del Darro 33 – Bañuelo. These lines also operate in Albaicín and Sacromonte.
  • From the Alhambra, take line C32, which stops at Carrera del Darro 33 – Bañuelo

Taxis can also drop visitors off near the Bañuelo.

 

Where to Eat

In Plaza Nueva, you have plenty of options, such as La Gran Taberna, where you can enjoy Granada-style tapas, toasts, dishes, cheeses, and cured meats.

Right in Plaza Nueva, you will find La Cueva, offering traditional Andalusian tapas served on greaseproof paper, as well as cooked dishes and portions. Another well-established spot in Granada is Bar Los Manueles, located on Monjas del Carmen street, featuring a small terrace where you can enjoy Granada’s cuisine.

Next to Los Manueles, you will find La Auténtica Carmela, a Spanish cuisine restaurant with a modern touch.

Heading towards Gran Vía along Reyes Católicos, in one of its small streets, you will come across Las Bodegas Castañeda, open since 1927, where you can taste barrel-aged wines, vermouth, and traditional Granada-style tapas and dishes.

However, this area of Granada is full of different options to choose from.

 

Nearby Points of Interest

The Bañuelo is located on Carrera del Darro, in the lower part of the Albayzín. If you continue along this street towards Cuesta del Chapiz, you will enjoy spectacular views of the Alhambra.

From there, you can explore the Albayzín, get lost in its streets, discover its squares, churches, and viewpoints, or take the Cuesta de los Chinos, which will take you to the Alhambra in about 30 minutes.

If, instead, you head towards Plaza Nueva, you will find the Cuesta de Gómerez, another route that passes through the Alhambra forest and leads to the monument in a 45-minute walk from the Bañuelo.

From Plaza Nueva, walking about 5 minutes to Calle Reyes Católicos, you will reach the Corral del Carbón, the only Nasrid alhóndiga that remains intact in the Iberian Peninsula.

If you continue to Gran Vía, you will find the Cathedral, a Renaissance masterpiece, and the Royal Chapel, where the Catholic Monarchs are buried.

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